Where did I go?
For those who weren’t as keen as my parents, following my progress every day in the big world atlas, I’ve drawn a little map of where I cycled, along with a few statistics thanks to the trusty cycle computer.
Total trip distance: 4,400km
Total time from Amsterdam to Stockholm: 78 days
Average speed: 400km/week
Number of rest days: 23
Average distance on riding days: 80km
Longest day cycling: 133km
Number of nights sleeping in my tent: 59
Maximum speed: 71km/hr
Total weight of bike and gear: 45kg
Average time taken to get ready in the morning: 1.5hrs!
Why was I travelling alone?
Sometimes it’s not until someone asks you to explain something that it begins to make sense. At my campsite one evening I met a Dutch fellow who was very interested in the details of my journey – what I was carrying and how I was travelling. He also wanted to know why I was on my own – whether it was because I couldn’t find any friends to join me, or whether I especially wanted to journey alone. I think it was probably a bit of both. For the first time in my life I felt like I was choosing to do something just for me instead of following someone else’s dream. In a moment of clarity I thought about what I’d really like to do, and just decided to do it. I’ve always felt too scared to do that before. I would have welcomed friends who wanted to join me, but I wasn’t particularly willing to compromise. After a pretty tough year I also felt like I needed some time alone to clear my head and prove something to myself. If I can spend three months cycling alone through Europe, then I feel that I can achieve anything I set my mind to. Without a doubt it was the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life. 
How did I cope with the languages? Typical of English speakers, I had the arrogance to embark on this journey without knowing any Dutch, German, Danish, Swedish or Norwegian. However communication was remarkably straightforward given the high proficiency of English spoken in all the countries I visited. I often felt embarrassed by my lack of language skills, and missed out on the little daily interactions. On the whole people seemed happy to switch to English, but some of the best fun was had when they didn’t! A standard conversation would begin with me mumbling something incoherent in response to a question posed in a language I didn’t understand. As soon as I opened my mouth and it became apparent that I was a foreigner, I would be asked in perfect English, ‘So where are you from?’. It constantly surprised me how much of a novelty I was coming from Australia. The reaction was generally a mixture of disbelief and genuine fascination. Campground owners would ask me to sign their guest books, saying ‘Or-strrar-lya… we’ve never had anyone from Or-strrar-lya before’!
Do I like travelling alone?
People were always asking me this. It’s a mixed bag – sometimes I love it, sometimes I hate it. I love the freedom. I love being able to stop and take pictures whenever I want. I often feel more confident and self-assured when I’m on my own and making decisions for myself. I like the clarity that comes from spending so much time in your own head. I enjoy the peace that comes from appreciating nature without the need for conversation. It felt good learning about my needs and preferences, my physical and mental limits. And I really enjoy keeping my own pace without holding anyone else up. However I get bored with my own company and wish that I was better at being crazy and outrageous. I miss sharing meals with friends – the social aspect of eating. I hate the fact that I began to substitute food for companionship. I really miss the sense of human touch and sometimes all I wanted in the whole world was a good hug. I often wished I could share the chores of cooking, cleaning, shopping, navigating, setting up camp and servicing my bike. But most of all I think it’s fun to travel with friends because it adds some spice and variety – you do things that you wouldn’t normally do otherwise, or do them in a different way. Certainly there are more compromises, but there are also a lot more laughs. After hugs, that’s probably what I missed the most, sharing laughs with friends.
There are certain bonuses to travelling alone. My friend Ian describes it as the ‘solo biker’s advantage’, referring to the kindnesses from strangers which are the real joy and highlight of a trip. I had so many thoughtful campers offer me meals along the way, which was always hugely appreciated at the end of a long day in the saddle. These little connections are a really special part of the journey, but I found that the partings also got harder as time went by. Any bike mechanicals?
My faithful friend, the jojomobile, was a star performer on this trip. In over 4000km of riding I had only a single puncture. As it happened, I’d already ridden 100km that day, it was 7 o’clock at night and I was stranded on a quiet gravel road in the middle of a Swedish forest. With no water and 10km to the nearest town I resigned myself to changing the tube while mozzies feasted on my flesh in the early dusk. A kind lady stopped to offer me a lift, but my stubborn streak surfaced at just that moment and I politely declined. I was soon yelling at the mozzies, but I eventually fixed it by myself. Such a small thing, and any real cyclist would laugh, but I felt like I’d passed an initiation rite. I was so proud! Other than that, I wore my rear tyre out and needed to replace it towards the end. Several nuts and bolts worked their way loose over time, but nothing which actually caused a problem. Maybe it was more good luck than good management, but I like to think it was a bit of both!
Which country did I like best?
I liked the variety most of all. In many respects Norway was a real highlight. Certainly in terms of landscape it was by far the most spectacular, however I don’t think I would’ve appreciated this so much if I hadn’t begun my trip in flat agricultural land. Norway was also a blessing in disguise for me personally, as I met a lot of other cyclists and had a much more social time during those four weeks. I spent more time in Sweden than anywhere else and thoroughly enjoyed visiting friends and getting a bit more of a Swedish experience. The festival at Dala Floda was also a fabulous way to break up the trip. Denmark was memorable for its pleasant cycling and indulging in a real feast of music at the Skagen festival. The camping was better in Holland than anywhere else, and I loved the open friendliness of the people and warm smiles. Germany is probably the place I’d most like to go back to, having seen only a small part of the North-West coast. I have to admit I wasn’t particularly looking forward to riding through Germany during the world cup frenzy. But I found the German people to be really lovely – exceptionally kind and helpful, and thoroughly generous and welcoming. The food was great and overall it was a very pleasant surprise (apologies to any Germans for ever thinking otherwise!).
Did I achieve what I set out to do? I think the answer would have to be a resounding ‘yes’. I travelled through five different countries with dramatically different landscapes, cultures and language. I met some lovely people and consolidated old friendships. I relaxed into the routine and became more comfortable with foreign language speakers, more at ease with making small decisions, and less concerned about someone stealing my bike. I’ve also made some headway with accepting the past and making peace with myself. As for becoming a better person, that was always going to be a tough ask for a three month holiday! But I can’t deny that I’m a better cyclist, and I finished with a wicked cycling tan. I’ve had many challenges along the way and I’ve pulled through despite the difficulties. I feel a huge sense of achievement for having lived a dream. I feel that my habit has tended to be to give up on things too easily, but this trip has brought out the stubbornness in me. If you really want something then you’ll find a way to make it work.
Would I do it again?
Definitely! It’s amazing how quickly you forget all the tears and frustrations, and start reminiscing about the joys of being close to nature and living simply. Next time I’ll choose somewhere different and have different personal goals. I’ll limit the trip to two months, and probably try and talk a friend in to coming with me. Cycle touring is such an amazing way to travel – a perfect blend of covering enough distance to really see a lot of places, but also having the time to take in the small wonders. Although it became tiring towards the end, I liked the way that living took up all my energy. Despite the long days I never felt bored or unsure of how to fill my time. My life revolved around the simple needs of finding food and somewhere to pitch my tent, caring for my body, my bike and the few possessions I carried with me. The pleasures were simple yet satisfying. It's such a refreshing change of pace from our typically busy Western lives. So get out there and enjoy it!
